A family of six goes to Guadalajara
Peregrino Issue 19
The last time we went to Mexico was in 2018 when our family had two fewer members. We flew from Phoenix to Monterrey via Dallas with an almost three-year-old and a fourteen-month-old. The suitcase with the kids’ formula and pajamas decided to hang out in Texas for an extra day. The reservation for the rental expired, and I had to get a new quote. It was a stressful beginning to a nine-day trip. I bowed, only to travel again once the kids were older and could carry their luggage. And then my sister told me she was getting married. So, of course, we had to go.
I became familiar with the DS-11 form. I filled five, one for each kid and one for myself. Fortunately, you can complete the form online and take it to your local post office. In addition, some fancy post offices can take your passport photo on-site and save you a trip to Walgreens. Just know that you can’t pay with a credit card, and if you’re under sixteen, your passport is only valid for five years. Five weeks later, we were ready to book our plane tickets.
One of the advantages of living in the 5th biggest city in the U.S. is that you can find non-stop flights to several places. Luckily, a non-stop flight to Guadalajara, where the wedding would be, could get us there in under three hours. Initially, we wanted to purchase seats for all six of us, but for some reason, Volaris, the airline we flew with, didn’t allow this option on their website because our baby wasn’t two years old. We prayed that nobody would buy the sixth seat on the plane’s last row. We wanted to be near the bathroom if our kids needed it—foreshadowing.
I found a three-bedroom apartment on Airbnb and booked it for when we would be there. Then, I called an audible the week before we left since I realized we would arrive late the first day and decided to stay in a hotel across the street from the airport. I didn’t want to risk meltdowns. I didn’t want to figure out the car rental situation, car seat installation, and Airbnb navigation with tired and cranky children—more foreshadowing.
I was surprised we packed most of the things we would need in two large suitcases. The three older kids had a backpack with a change of clothes, pajamas, headphones, snacks, barf bags, and a water bottle. Diana and I had packed diapers, wipes, extra snacks, and miscellaneous items in ours. A double stroller completed our luggage. My parents were driving from Monterrey to Guadalajara and brought us a couple of car seats borrowed from a cousin. I was kicking myself because we did not take the carry-on luggage we had paid for and could not remove it from my reservation—that’s how they get you; pay at the counter if you’re unsure about your luggage situation.
We left our van in one of the economy parking lots at Sky Harbor and took the PHX Sky Train to our terminal. We arrived with plenty of time before our flight, so much so that we had to wait for Volairs employees to get to the front desk. Once we checked our luggage, we went through security. Shout out to the TSA employee that sent us through the super rapid line because he saw Diana and me herding four kids through the airport. Grabbing all the bags, shoes, and stroller from the conveyor belt was a significant hurdle.
The next hurdle was hurrying up and waiting. Hurry up to get to the gate. Wait for the flight to start boarding. Wait for your group’s turn to board the plane. Hurry up, and walk down the aisle to the last row. Wait until the lady that bought the sixth seat on the row is settled, then let her know you have the other two seats. She was a good sport and moved to another row with empty seats. Get the kids settled, put the bags away, and fasten all seat belts. Before you know it, you’re in the air, the kids are watching a movie on the iPad, and everyone’s excited to reach their destination.
The hotel had a free shuttle from the airport. So I called and asked to be picked up. They told me to wait outside the OXXO—the Mexican CircleK. A van pulled over, and we loaded everything and everyone in. We were getting the kids ready for bed in our room a few minutes later. It was an okay suite with a king-size bed, a fold-out couch, and a bathtub, perfect for us. Everyone was tired from all the hurrying up and waiting, so we went to sleep relatively quickly.
Our stay included complimentary breakfast. However, my gringuitos said everything tasted weird. So we fed them peanut butter and jelly sandwiches so they would have something in their bellies. I returned to the airport searching for a minivan, but no luck. So I drove off the Hertz lot on a humongous white Suburban. Mexican streets are made for something other than this kind of vehicle. My parents and I got to the hotel at the same time, so I installed the car seats, packed everything and everyone, and we were ready to explore Guadalajara.
We decided to visit Acuario Michin Guadalajara, which is a decent size aquarium that also has a petting zoo and aviary. You walk through different geographical regions in Mexico and see the fish endemic to each one. My favorite was the Axolotl, a critically endangered species native to Mexico. It’s an amphibian that reaches adulthood without undergoing metamorphosis. In the aviary, we fed the birds, and my wife was able to snap a photo of me in all my dadness. After a brief visit to my sister’s, we checked into our Airbnb, and I even got to meet my good friend Otto for dinner while Diana put the kids to bed.
Remember how my gringuitos--how I endearingly call my children--didn’t like the food at the hotel? We had a slight mishap with whole milk, not agreeing with some of our kids. So I went on a mission to the nearest Walmart to get provisions that the kids would eat. I didn’t anticipate this, so it was a curveball. Luckily I could secure mac and cheese boxes and peanut butter so they could eat something close to what they eat at home. We went to my sister’s for a barbecue that afternoon, and I discovered some of my kids liked chistorra, a Spanish sausage. Diana and I had a torta ahogada as a warm-up. Tortas ahogadas are a typical dish from Guadalajara. It consists of carnitas inside a sourdough roll called birote covered in a tomato-based sauce; eating it with a spoon is customary.
We went to Museo de Paleontología de Guadalajara the next day upon Oliver’s request. They have a smilodon and woolly mammoth skeleton as part of the exhibits. The entrance was free, which was nice. We headed over to Tlaquepaque for brunch afterward. Tlaquepaque is a pueblo mágico, which means it has a rich history attached to it. It’s a colorful, quaint little tourist town with shops, crafts, markets, and restaurants. In Spanish colonial fashion, their streets were narrow, and parking was dicey, but we managed. That night we discovered Churros Porfirio, the best damn churros I’ve had. Lucia approved.
The next day was the day of the wedding. Diana went to get her makeup and hair done with my sisters and mom while I stayed with the kids at the Airbnb. We ordered seafood and had a feast while waiting until the last minute to dress the kids in their wedding attire. Then, we walked down the aisle before the bride and groom. I carried Lucia while she spread rose petals. The kids lit up the dance floor until they crashed. It was a chaotic and fun time. We ended up ordering happy meals for my picky eaters—the things you do to keep the peace.
We took it easy the last two days. First, we went to Mass at the Cathedral and chilled for the rest of the day. Then, on Monday, we went to Chuck E. Cheese, played video games, and ate pizza. After that, the kids got new toys for the trip, and we headed back to the Airbnb to pack and get ready to return home the next day. Diana and I got churros again that night after the kids went to bed. They were that good.
We headed to the airport and returned the car. The problem was we had five hours to kill at the airport before going through security and walking to our gate. The kids were entertained with their new toys until they weren’t. Oliver discovered chicken sandwiches that day and has been sampling different ones since then. We made the crucial mistake of not packing a change of clothes in the kids’ backpacks. We thought we wouldn’t need them. Then Emilio threw up all over himself on the plane, and Mateo’s diaper was so full that his clothes were soaked. Always pack a change of clothes when traveling with kids.
We picked up all our bags and headed to the PHX Sky Train to get to our minivan. I asked Diana for Oliver’s backpack, and a cold chill ran down our spine. Diana went to the lost and found at the terminal but couldn’t find it. Finally, an hour later than planned, we arrived home. Thankfully, Oliver’s bag—with all its treasures—was found a day later.
Our adventure ended; we were glad we went but were happy to be home. Traveling with four kids is not for the faint of heart. Hopefully, this story helps you. Diana and I have vowed not to repeat this until the kids are older. Maybe five years from now.